Shooting on 16mm film is an incredibly rewarding experience, but it can feel daunting if you're unfamiliar with the format. To make it more accessible, I’ve compiled answers to some of the most common questions I get asked. Whether you’re planning your first shoot or just curious about working with celluloid, this post should help. For project-specific advice, feel free to contact me directly.
What does it cost to shoot on 16mm film?
There are three major costs associated with shooting on 16mm film: Raw Film Stock, Processing, and Scanning.
Each of these categories can vary in price depending on your choices:
- Raw Film Stock: This is the unexposed film that you’ll be shooting on. For 16mm, Kodak is the go-to manufacturer and produces a variety of options at varying costs.
- Processing: Once the film is exposed, it needs to be developed by a professional lab. This involves a chemical process that makes the image visible on the film.
- Scanning: To get the film into a digital format for editing, it needs to be scanned. Scanning at a higher resolution (like 4K) will cost more than a lower resolution, but it’s essential if you’re planning on distributing your project on modern platforms.
On average, one 400ft roll of 16mm color negative film, processed and scanned at 4K resolution, will cost around $500. This covers everything from buying the film to getting digital files ready for post-production.
For a more detailed breakdown of the costs involved, check out this video on film costs.
How much film do I need for my project?
The amount of 16mm film you need will depend on the length of your project and your shooting ratio (the amount of footage you shoot compared to the final length of the film). A 400ft roll of 16mm film shot at 24 frames per second (fps) will give you around 11 minutes of footage.
For instance:
- Music videos or short experimental projects typically have lower shooting ratios (e.g., 2:1 or 3:1).
- Narrative films with more complex scenes, dialogue, and character blocking tend to have higher ratios (e.g., 5:1 or more).
As a general rule, I recommend planning for a minimum shooting ratio of 3:1, meaning you'll want to shoot three times as much footage as the final runtime of your film.
Here’s how to calculate it:
- Multiply the total runtime of your project by your desired shooting ratio. For a script, this could be caluculated by page numbers, or for a music video, use song length.
- Use that to estimate how many rolls of film you’ll need.
For example, if you’re shooting a 10-minute short film with a 4:1 shooting ratio, plan for around 40 minutes of footage, or 4 x 400ft rolls of 16mm film.
Where can I buy 16mm film?
Kodak is the primary manufacturer of 16mm film stock, and you can order directly from their website. They offer a variety of stocks to suit different lighting conditions and styles.
For those looking for alternatives, I’ve also had success purchasing film from Mono No Aware, a non-profit organization that ships quickly, keeps a variety of stocks in stock, and doesn’t charge sales tax.
How to save money when shooting film?
One way to save money when shooting on film is by purchasing short ends and recans, which are unused portions of film from other productions, available on eBay, Facebook Marketplace, or through industry connections. You can also reduce costs by buying in bulk, taking advantage of student discounts from Kodak, or reaching out to labs for package deals. Additionally, I have a relationship with The Negative Space, a lab that offers high-quality, affordable film development and scanning. By working with me, you can save money on post-production, making film a more budget-friendly option for your project.
What happens after the film is shot?
After shooting, your exposed film needs to be processed/developed at a professional lab. It’s important to send it out promptly to avoid any damage to the footage. Once developed, the next step is scanning the film into a digital format for editing.
- The lab that processes the film will often provide scanning services as well, but you can also send it to a dedicated scanning house.
- For high-quality scans at competitive prices, I highly recommend The Negative Space. They offer excellent service and reliable turnaround times.
To make things easier for my clients, I offer an all-inclusive post-distribution package that covers processing, scanning, and delivery of your digital files, saving you time and effort.
How do I work with film scans?
Once you receive your film scans, typically on a hard drive or through a digital transfer service, you can treat them just like digital footage. The files will often come in ProRes or DPX formats, which are industry standards for high-quality video.
Editing is similar to working with digital video, with just a few additional steps:
- You will need to split clips from long reels.
- If you recorded audio separately, you’ll sync it with the visuals.
- Color grading with film-specific LUTs will help achieve a classic film print look
Beyond these steps, the process is very similar to editing digital footage from any modern cinema camera.
How long does it take to get film scans back?
The timeline for getting film scans back depends on the lab and the services used, but it generally takes 1-3 weeks if you don't have an local lab to drop off to.
